page 144, Meat aging
10/30/2005

But the flavor and texture of beef keep improving for a month or more [of dry aging] . . . .

(My thanks for this correction to Jeffrey Steingarten, who arranged a memorable tasting of rib steaks aged for 3, 4, 8, and 20 weeks at Robert's Steak House in New York City in May, 2005. The flavor of the 8-week steak was clearly the best of the bunch, rich and intense, and without the off aromas of the oldest sample.)